Wednesday Morning in Seoul |
Seoul is the world's second largest metropolis (behind Tokyo). To give you an idea of how large that is, Seoul has about 1 million more people than New York City and about 4 times the population density (number of people per amount of land). |
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Morning rush hour with a statue of Admiral Yi in the background |
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Seoul City Hall |
Decorations in preparation for Buddha's birthday celebrations
Even though a good portion of present-day Koreans are Christian (there are churches nearly every other block, it seems), the history of Buddhism in Korea goes back centuries. Someone was telling me that Buddha's birthday wasn't celebrated to this extent previously, but in recent moves to reclaim old Korean traditions and culture (nationalism/patriotism runs high among Koreans), it's now a government holiday. |
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A completely different Seoul
This is not the same city I visited when I was 12. I can only imagine how mind-boggling all of this was for my mom, who hadn't been back in nearly 30 years. Most of South Korea is lined now with high rise apartment buildings. Since the population is rising, and they don't exactly have land to expand upon, everything's being built upwards. Everywhere we went, there were 15+ story buildings (the average seemed to be at about 18 floors), plus more on the way. |
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Gyung Bok Palace
If I were to describe South Korea in one phrase, it would be "Old and new, with a smattering of cuteness." Even though present-day South Korea is one of the most technologically advanced nations in the world (leaps and bounds ahead of the U.S. - it's the home of Samsung, LG, and Hyundai), its history, culture, and traditions go back millenia. As such, even in the middle of a large metropolitan area like Seoul, there are still landmarks dating back to the times of Korea's old kingdoms from centuries past. ... The "cuteness" part, I'll get to later. |
Mom and me posing in front of the Chung Wa Dae
Translated as "The Blue House," it can be considered the "White House" of South Korea. It holds the offices and official residence of the South Korean president. |
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In-Between Places
I'm always a fan of in-between places, even here in the U.S. It's always interesting to me when I visit and spend time in places that many people don't even bother to stop at. |
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Before I left for the trip, I thought I might trip out at being surrounded by everything Korean, all the time. But when I got there, it didn't seem all that weird. In fact, I felt like I was visiting a larger version of K-town. After a while, it got to the point where I was weirded out whenever I saw non-Koreans out and about on the streets. |
Street-side vendors
Almost everywhere you go, there are street-side vendors. They sell anything from souvenirs to hot food to alcohol to fresh produce. Open air markets are also popular. |
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Old style houses
Yes, there are still neighborhoods not yet affected by all the development (though they are few and far between, and mostly in the more rural areas of the country). In fact, the government is trying to preserve some of these older neighborhoods for cultural preservation. |
Farms
Korea is still big on agriculture. Being a fairly closed society for so many centuries, Korea had to be pretty self-sufficient in order for it to survive and flourish as it has. In any case, when I was here last, most of this land was rice paddies. Unfortunately, after the financial crisis in the 1990s and various free trade agreements forcing South Korea to import rice from the U.S., most of them have since been converted to ginseng fields. The fields in this picture still seem to be rice paddies, though. |
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Graves
Korea is known for its scenic mountains and hills. Every once in a while, you'll see some of these hills dotted with small mounds - graves. Some are centuries old, some are recent. If you're not used to it, it's kind of weird to see at first - imagine going on a long roadtrip (like on I-5 in the middle of California) and seeing a bunch of random graves scattered along the side. Anyway, even though they're graves, the land they exist on aren't exactly cemeteries. In fact, these graves are family graves that exist on land owned by the respective families. In more agricultural areas of the country, some graves will sit in the middle of the farm land, surrounded by various crops. Nowadays, because of the shortage of land, increasingly more people are choosing to be cremated upon death (the ashes are either scattered or interred in public mausolea). |
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Service Areas/Rest Stops
If only the rest stops in the U.S. were like this... Gas stations, clean bathrooms, convenience stores, tasty food, all in one convenient spot. The ones I ever encounter stateside are either desolate with nasty public bathrooms (reminiscent of the bathrooms in public parks and beaches) or have all of these conveniences (gas stations, restaurants, etc.), but you have to get back in your car and drive to each of them separately. |
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I don't know why they didn't translate "오징어" ("ojingo"). It means squid. More accurately, they're referring to dried squid, which is reminiscent of beef jerky... I guess you could call it "squid jerky." |
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Corn Dogs (referred to in Korea as "hot bars (핫바)")
Asians may not have invented many of the things we enjoy in today's world (e.g. TVs, light bulbs, telephones, fast food), but they sure do a great job at perfecting them! The one on the right is a corn dog encased in a layer of french fries... YUM!!!
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A replica of a turtle boat made out of snack cake boxes (the display was made to promote a new variety of snack cake). It even has dry ice smoke coming out of its mouth. |
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Several open-air marketplaces exist in South Korea. They mostly sell produce and other food stuffs. |
Mexicana is a fried chicken joint, although I couldn't tell you if "Mexicana" refers to the type of food, or if it's just a name. |
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We had many buffet meals on the trip. One of the places in Korea that specialize in buffet meals is what is known as the "wedding hall." Unlike the U.S., where most wedding ceremonies take place in churches or private residences, most Koreans get married in hotels or these "wedding halls." They're basically large buildings with several banquet rooms, each of which both a wedding ceremony and reception take place. There can be several weddings going on simultaneously in one of these buildings on any given day. |
Koreans love to sing.
Everywhere you look in South Korea, there will be at least one "노래방" (pronounced "no rae bang", i.e. karaoke room) that'll be in your line of sight. Unlike American karaoke bars, these places consist of private party rooms, many of which have restaurant service with the food and drinks delivered directly to each room by the servers. It's a national sensation! |
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MORE IN-BETWEEN PLACES |
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When the tides are low, the rest of this road opens up leading to an island just off the coast. However, this road only seems to open up a few times a year. |
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The sun gets ready to set. |
A Buddhist Temple
Many people not familiar with Asian cultures mistake that mark as a Nazi swastika and get offended. (This reminds me of a small fluff piece I saw in the local TV news when I lived in Northern California. Apparently, this kid was watching "Pokémon" and saw the symbol on one of the buildings in the background. Since the cartoon is Japanese, it was a non-issue for its creators (they were just drawing various buildings, one of which was a Buddhist temple). This didn't translate properly to this American kid, who saw the symbol way in the background, mistook it for a Nazi swastika (although the two look different), and became offended. Unfortunately, this didn't translate properly to the American adults involved either (including the reporters), who actually ended up praising the kid for noticing it and bringing the issue to light. Come to think of it, I don't know if the piece was ever retracted...) Anyway, it's actually a Chinese character (although, it originated from Sanskrit) meaning "eternity," or something. If you ever encounter that symbol on any local maps in Asian countries, don't get scared - they're just there to show you where the Buddhist temples are. |
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CITY OF POHANG
(Some pictures NSFW.) |
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This area is a recent addition to Pohang. It reminds me of the 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica. |
A special vending machine
While we were in Pohang, the group (all 250 of us) stayed in various motels about town. Most of these motels were what Koreans call "love hotels." We came face to face with this beauty as soon as we got off the elevator to get to our room. My mom, brother, and I stayed in a fairly decent room (just a regular room with mats to sleep on the ground). Some of the people in the group lucked out and got rooms with interestingly shaped beds. |
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The beach, just after sunrise |
Some graffiti on the breakers |
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More graffiti on the breakers
No matter where you're from, when you're learning a foreign language, you somehow always seem to learn the cuss words first... |
Mom shaking hands with South Korean President Lee Myung Bak (or a cardboard cutout of him) at the site of his hometown |
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Hand Sculptures (Homigot Beach)
Apparently, they were designed so that if the hands are put together, the fingers will line up and lock perfectly. Whether or not that's true, we'll never know... |
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On Our Own in Seoul
At this point, I sort of got sick of carrying my camera around, so I don't have as many pictures during this time as I do from earlier in the trip. |
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The view from the top of Seoul Namsan Tower (website best viewed with Internet Explorer)
We took the cable car up Namsan (literally translated, "South Mountain"), and then took the elevator up to the top of the tower (both the cable car ride and admission to the tower's observation deck were 7000 won (about $7 USD) each). It was 9pm on a Thursday when we got on the cable car to head up the mountain, and the thing was packed! The people of Seoul really don't sleep. Even when my family and I decided to call it a day, there were still droves of people moving about the city, many of whom were hitting up the next bar or karaoke place. |
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Unhyun Palace |
Mom and me waiting out the rain at Duksu Palace |
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Seoul's subway system
One of my hobbies when I travel is figuring out the local subway system. As crazy as its subway system is, Seoul was no exception. My next goal when riding the subways in Seoul is to get a smart card so that I can ride like all the locals. The people in Seoul use either transportation cards, credit cards with smart chips, or chips in their cell phones that allow them to gain admission onto mass transit (i.e. buses and subway trains). Buses and subway stations have little receivers that read the chips in these cards remotely and charge the fare to your account (bank, credit card, cell phone, etc.) accordingly. In the subway stations, the receivers are in the turnstiles, while the receivers on the buses are where you'd normally deposit your money (right next to the driver). Next time I ride the subways in Seoul, I want to be able to just wave my wallet and hear the turnstile beep and let me through. |
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The little picture of the train at the bottom of the sign shows us how far away the real train is (the text underneath it show the names of the previous 2 stations, with the station you're currently at being at the far right). The picture moves and stops in time with the actual train. |
A protective wall with automatic sliding doors
These walls are to prevent people from falling onto the tracks. Not all subway stations have this wall. I think they only exist where there's a lot of traffic. |
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Chung Gyae Chun |
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Entering Myungdong
Earlier in the day, I met up with my old friend from USC, Hyunmi, in Insadong, an area of town with lots of boutiques and antiques shops (the only places that come to mind when trying to come up with an L.A. counterpart is Silverlake or Echo Park... or maybe even Venice Beach). After Hyunmi and I parted ways, my mom decided she wanted to take a look around Myungdong. Myungdong is a major shopping area that's like a cross between Melrose and Rodeo Drive. It's populated with the hip, young crowd. The music's loud, but the people are louder. Not for the timid. |
Nam Dae Mun Marketplace
Literally translated, Nam Dae Mun means "Big South Door" (although, I think people prefer the translation "Great South Gate"). Without getting into the history of the city gates, this marketplace is one of the oldest in town. If there's something Koreans love to do other than eating or singing, it's shopping. A lot of Americans think Asian people get pushy when they shop. It's true, but not because it's some innate quality. Many "pushy Asians" come from large metropolitan areas, such as this, where the shopping areas are crowded all the time. As such, people from these areas have only one belief when it comes to shopping - "You snooze, you lose." |
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Unfortunately, some foreigners (especially Americans) have not so positive experiences when they shop in Korea, especially in the local marketplaces (where the salespeople are a little more rough around the edges than their department store counterparts, who are trained and trained again until they're brainwashed with courtesy). To put it in plain English, people just get plain impatient with folks taking their sweet time browsing and paying for stuff. Now, here's the important part - whether you like it or not, they're not being rude; you're just moving too slow. (When in Rome...) So, Jean's word of advice when shopping with the locals in Korea - know what you want, and always have your money in hand and ready to go by the time you reach the cashier. You may not be in a rush, but a few of the dozens of other people waiting behind you might be. |
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Evening rush hour |
Seoul Station (the Union Station of Seoul) |
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Random Stuff
Just some random stuff I found that I thought would be interesting to share... |
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Fancy toilets with electronic bidets
Even their toilets are technologically advanced!!! In addition to electronic bidets, I also encountered toilets that automatically switched out the toilet seat covers for you. Wow! ... Actually, Koreans seem to be getting big on electronic bidet systems. At least 2 of the hotel rooms I stayed in during my trip had them. A couple of public restrooms I encountered also had them. I never did get a hang of the blow drying settings, though. |
And then there are these toilets...
These are ye olde toilets of Korea that I remember from my childhood visits (all 2 of them). Not too many of them exist anymore, but you may encounter them when you go to more rural areas of the country. You can't use these unless you know how to squat (you know, the "Asian squat"), but I find that they do have some positive qualities, such as no toilet seat to come in contact with. Although, there are definitely things you need to watch out for when using these toilets, such as aim and making sure things (such as your pants) don't get in the way of your aim... |
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Oh Engrish...
I don't know why people think using foreign (or pseudo-foreign) words will make their products any fancier (Häagen-Dazs, anyone?). Korea is no exception. Crunky - I know hip-hop and breakdancing are big in Korea right now (they boast some of the best breakdancers in the world currently), but... Although, it is a good bar of chocolate (better than Nestlé Crunch, in my opinion). I don't know what Newyork Ivyle ague Institute is trying to get at, though. Other than the name, there's nothing in that store that screams "Newyork" or "Ivyle ague." |
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This is still Korea...
Although American and other foreign restaurant chains have made it to Korea, they don't have the exact same menu as their original, native land counterparts. The food doesn't exactly taste the same either, but that's only natural. I mean, it is a completely different geo-agricultural environment... Did I just make up a word? Oh well. You know what I mean - different part of the world, different climate, different types of crops, etc. I have to say, though, I think I prefer the Korean versions of these restaurants. I definitely prefer their Pizza Hut and Baskin Robbins (ICE CREAM FONDUE?!?!!!!!!!!!). |
This could be anywhere in the U.S.
But it's not. This is actually Seoul's Itaewon district, home to most of Seoul's foreigners. I saw more non-Koreans during that one hour I was here than I did during my entire trip in Korea (actually, during all of my trips to Korea combined! ... Scratch that - there was that one time I visited that U.S. military base...). Anyway, I thought I was back at home for a second! People and food from all over the world - Europe, Middle East, Africa, Latin America... Unfortunately, my family and I made the mistake of visiting in the middle of the day. Like many places in Seoul, Itaewon really only comes to life at night. |
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What if 7-Elevens here had a Hello Kitty marketing campaign? ... |
A lot of foreign restaurants in Korea also change their menus to cater to its Korean patrons (Koreans not big fans of rich, greasy foods). But the KFC here went so far as to make an Asian Colonel. |
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So, if I stay on the 10 East... ??? |
Even though there are a lot of pedestrians in Korea, it doesn't mean the drivers are any more careful. This is not the U.S., where the pedestrians always have the right of way. Even if you get a green light for the crosswalk, make sure you look both ways at least twice before crossing - some drivers choose not to stop at red lights. My mom almost had a heart attack when were riding in the taxi. |
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As a result of the American military presence in Korea, most street and freeway signs also have English translations. IF you choose to drive in Korea (although, I wouldn't recommend it), you shouldn't have too difficult of a time trying to figure out where you are. |
This sign means:
- A. Pedestrians and bicycles OK on this path.
- B. Buy your kid a bike here.
- C. Watch out for kidnappers!
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Cute caricatures abound in Korea.
Cute characters like this are EVERYWHERE in Korea, from advertising to instructional media to official government notices. This is a sign warning you of construction ahead. I'm not qualified enough to discuss the psychology behind Asia's obsession with cuteness. The only thing that comes to mind for me is the desire to create a friendly and approachable environment. |
They're GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREAT! |
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Americans might be big on texting now, but they've got nothing on Koreans. Not only does almost everyone in Korea own a cell phone, but most owners of cell phones also text message. This includes little kids and the elderly. |
Koreans are crazy with fitness. In almost all of the neighborhood parks I've encoutered, I've run into random exercise contraptions such as this. |
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Scooters and motorcycles...
The mode of transportation of choice for delivery people in Korea. I remember a classmate telling me a few years ago that he saw a delivery guy in Korea on the road with a refrigerator tied to his scooter. Before I left, I saw a guy delivering a queen-sized mattress on one of these (again, stupid digital cameras and their slow-ass startup times!). |
Koreans love sitting on the ground...
Well, I don't know if I'm over-generalizing. But the culture does involve a lot of sitting and sleeping on the ground. They even have it hooked up so that their floors are heated! Many traditional restaurants in Korea, such as this place, involve sitting on the ground. Hope you have good circulation in your legs! |
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